Editor:

I enjoyed W.R. Tish's thoughtful analysis of three wine publications, particularly of the ratings game ("Off the Vine," Sept. 2006).

Given the price of wine, it's no surprise readers want someone's opinion before laying down hard-earned cash. They could demand more rigor in sensory analysis or the rating method, but then, how would they know there's a deficiency? A publication has no vested interest in teaching these things.

While we can't expect publications to point out their own shortcomings, we can expect them to ensure the wine they review is the same wine the reader buys. Is the readership aware that the bottles or barrel samples reviewed were chosen and provided at the discretion of the producer? What measures were taken to ensure that the wine reviewed is authentic? In 35 years as a winegrower, I haven't seen a measure taken or a concern raised in this regard.

A few years ago, a new vintner came to me wanting to buy 30 barrels of bulk Cabernet. He explained he had only 10 barrels of his first vintage; Parker had already tasted the wine from the barrel and it had garnered a 93. The vintner said, "With that score, I need to bottle a lot more wine."

The one publication that does it right is the Wall Street Journal. You can be certain a wine reviewed by Gaiter and Brecher is exactly what it is purported to be. They bought it off the shelf like you and me.

s/ Tom Ferrell, general manager
Spring Mountain Vineyard
St. Helena, Calif.
via e-mail


Editor:

Bulk table wine imports are up 229% from a year ago, following California's record-breaking 2005 harvest. One driver of this trend is demand for varietals like Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio and Riesling. Another is consumer willingness to try wines from around the globe to match popular cuisines. Well-known brands are responding by sourcing wines from every continent.

The cost of goods also drives this trend. California has the perfect infrastructure, climate and soils for winegrapes, but also a higher cost of doing business. Consumers prove with their shopping habits that price matters more than origin. In wine, price and taste almost always trump origin.

This has led to the most bothersome trend in global wine sourcing: blending California wine with imported wine for "American" appellation products. State law requires "California" appellation wines to contain 100% California grapes. However, under federal regulations, an "American" appellation can be used when blending up to 25% of an imported wine into a California (or another state) wine.

It's perfectly legal, but is that what we really want? We could seek a change in federal law, but no one wants unnecessary regulations. A more responsible approach would be to voluntarily disclose on the label the percentage of wine from America and the percentage from other sources. This is the right thing for consumers and the industry, and this is the right time to do it.

CAWG is investing in winegrape grower strategies to add value to the California brand and "Buy California" message. In addition to price, the place, people and practices behind the product matter to consumers. The most important thing we can do is give consumers another reason to choose California wine.

No one has a greater stake in fostering consumer appreciation and loyalty for California wine than the people who own and farm our vineyards. As we reach out to consumers, let's be sure the integrity, quality and price of our products justify their trust.

s/ Karen Ross, president
California Association of
Winegrape Growers (CAWG)
Sacramento, Calif.
via e-mail


Editor:

I thoroughly devoured Bryan Garbutt's well-written story about millennial sommeliers and the frustration of wine veterans who must kowtow to their authority (Opinion/Analysis, Sept. 2006). I liked his solution to the frustration of being rejected just for being a veteran label of reminding the buyers about balance for all their patrons. The thing that struck a personal chord for me was his description of the insensitive rejections.

I often find myself across the table from veteran winery owners who are thinking about selling their family business. The conversations about selling lead to their reasons why, and while I have never been told directly that the attitudes of restaurant and retail wine buyers had a direct impact on the decision to sell, veteran winemakers/winery owners frequently imply their frustration with the changing selling environment as a final straw.

Winery owners wear so many hats: It's been my experience that sales and marketing is one of their least favorite. Glad-handing is part and parcel of the selling business. But when a mature person with significant life experience is dismissed by a cocky 25 year old with a Bluetooth apparatus permanently affixed to his ear, it's a hard pill to swallow.

While reading Mr. Garbutt's article, my heart went out to so many winery owners I have met who hit the bricks personally and were rebuffed for no reason other than that they've been proving themselves too long. When I find myself on the listening end of the surrender of those who just don't want to re-invent themselves, it makes me want to shake people who have taken their new-found authority too seriously and say, "Hey, a little respect here!" Change is hard. Harder on some than others.

s/Kate Somple
WineryX Real Estate/
LifeStyle Properties
St. Helena, Calif.
via e-mail