Growing & Winemaking
The Secret Life of Feral Yeast
A week of fermenting and punching down Pinot Noir at Crossbarn Winery in Sebastopol, Calif., has left the air heavy with seductive aromas. The fermentation hall reeks of berries and tropical fruit—a sign that the yeast has begun its two-month struggle to transform this year’s harvest from earthy to elegant. Only then will winemaker Greg La Follette wash the last traces of pulp from his hands and call it a day.
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