Since Wines & Vines  is a media co-sponsor of the annual San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, I had a chance back in January to serve as one of the judges for that three - and - a - half - day marathon event at the Cloverdale Citrus Fairgrounds. I've done many smaller judgings, been to some outrageously big tastings and, of course, consumed my fair share of wine--but nothing quite like 4,700-plus wines, 1,800 different brands, 60 judges and half a week's worth of nonstop sipping and spitting.

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